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The creation

Due to the complexity of the pieces the manufacturing process is often lengthy whether it be a ring, engagement ring, medal, pendant, or a necklace. This unique production process begins with the conception, namely the art to translate an idea into sketches. Those true masterpieces are the result of Philippe Tournaire’s numerous hours of reflection and research.




 
Sketches and models always come from artistic inspiration. Many attempts and corrections are necessary but, in the end the artist’s creativity gets even more impressive. The next step consists of choosing the material to work with as well as the precious stones.

 

The Choice of the Stones

Precious stones are thoughtfully chosen; everything is meticulously studied so that the harmony of the forms and the colors is complete, and every creation has its own appropriate personality. Indeed, each stone is unique and each jewel is close to perfection.

The choice of diamonds is made according to several factors, say 4C :the size (Cut), the color (Color), the weight (Carat) or still the clarity (Clarity). All these variants have to be mastered to perfection to obtain the finest result.

1 - Cut and sizes

We use the light and the laws of its distribution (external and internal reflection, refraction and dispersal, considering the distribution of color and the inclusions) to determine the proportions and give fire, brightness and sparkling to the jewel.

 The round brilliant size:
 
 Other existing cuts:
 
2 - The color

Color is the most obvious and attractive feature of gemstones. This is generally what really strikes at first sight. The color of any material is due to many factors and the theories on the subject do not help to understand the phenomenon.
Upon examining a mineral, the color is what we notice first, but this color is not sufficient to properly identify a stone. Many gemstones are blue or red. However, the stone doesn’t have a color as an intrinsic property. In fact,when light passes through a material, the gem absorbs some of it. Then the viewer’s eye interprets the part of the light that is not absorbed as a color..

The theories about the causes of the crystals colors are all based on chemistry and physics..

An international agreement was reached to cover the Diamond Color range: it is called "Old Terms". In addition to this agreement, France also has its own standard. In the United States, the "Gemological Institute of America" system is most commonly used.
 
 

Diamond Color Scale

French standard	GIA	Old Terms
Exceptional white +	D	River
Exceptional white	E	River
Rare White +	F	Top Wesselton
Rare White	G	Top Wesselton
White	H	Wesselton
Shaded white	I, J	Top Crystal
Slightly Tinted White	K, L	Crystal
Tinted White	M et +	from Top Cape to Yellow
Special Color Diamond

 
 

3 - Weight

The metric carat origins as a unit of weight for diamond, One carat equates to one-fifth of a gram i.e. 0.200g. If the weight is below one carat, the measurement is then referred to as a fraction, usually a hundredth (one carat equates to 100 points / hundredth).
The weight of the stone determines its thickness, thus its diameter.

4 - Clarity

In order to estimate its purity, it is necessary to study the number and the position of inclusions in the stone. The degrees of purity of diamonds are classified by international standards from IF to SI.

• IF Internally Flawless
  Diamonds have no inclusions visible under 10x magnification, only small blemishes on the diamond surface.

• VVS Very Very Small inclusion(s)
  Diamonds have minute inclusions that are difficult for a skilled grader to see under 10x magnification.

• VS Very Small inclusion(s)
  Diamonds have minor inclusions that are difficult to somewhat easy for a trained grader to see when viewed under 10x magnification.

• SI Small Inclusion(s)
  Diamonds have noticeable inclusions that are easy to very easy for a trained grader to see when viewed under 10x magnification.

• I1 Included (Inclusions)
  Diamonds have obvious inclusions that are clearly visible to a trained grader under 10x magnification.

• I2 et I3- Inclusion 2 and 3
  I2 inclusions are easily seen, while I3 diamonds have large and extremely easy to see inclusions that typically impact the brilliance of the diamond, as well as having inclusions that are often likely to threaten the structure of the diamond.

How do we choose our diamonds?

Philippe Tournaire uses GVS quality diamonds for all his jewels. The quality is Extra White in Very Small Inclusion.
The use of sentinels’ diamonds is significant in Tournaire’s work. Those special stones enable to take advantage of the strength and the hardness of the diamond, thus the other stones are protected. Their white brightness strengthens the color contrast.
Crimped diamonds are all of round brilliant size. This kind of size has an unparalleled brightness and sparkling that remains glistening over time, unlike the other forms.

Once the materials, the stones and their colour are chosen, we create three dimensions jewels. Generally the jeweller picks the stones during the conception phase, through sketches, drawings and other attempts. However every stone combination is estimated when the piece is complete

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