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When a piece of creation emerges from the cast iron, the metal is in the raw state, ie its surface has many imperfections to correct before obtaining the final result. From the abrasive disc to the welding torch, the wide range of techniques and tools used for this step allows to meet every need.
Each tiny part of the future jewel must be deburred, filed, emerged then polished so that the rendering is irreproachable. The raw metal is worked with abrasive tools, one begins with a grosgrain that makes it possible to remove the raw appearance and to equalize the surfaces of the jewel. We then use grains always finer with felt and cotton that will give the shiny appearance to the jewel.
This stage of the work of the raw jewel can take from a few hours to several days following the difficulties of the assembly, the preparation and the complexity of the piece.
I often leave a main stone, which the customer can bring or choose from my collection, and then I embellish it…
The choice of precious stones used for a jewel is not insignificant, everything is meticulously chosen so that the harmony of shapes and colors is perfect and reflects the originality of each creation. Different types of stones are used during manufacture. Precious stones and fine stones are set according to the colors.
The preparation of stones is akin to the art of painting: the types of stones, shapes and colors are the painter's tools and palette. The challenge is to harmonize shapes and colors harmoniously.
But other elements take into account when choosing the stone, especially the size. The shape of a gem is a characteristic that will influence the visual appearance because its brightness can vary, as does its cost.
One of the last stages of the work is to fix the stones to the jewel, it is a very meticulous step which requires great precision. There are several types of crimping:
- The closed seal is the method we use the most for reasons of comfort (because the stone is protected) and aesthetics, thanks to the mirror effect that seems to increase the size of the gem. The jewel is pierced and milled to the size of the stone it will accommodate. The stone is then placed there, then the metal around the stone is then folded over with a hammer that acts like a miniature hammer. Then the outline of the stone can be engraved from a stall to obtain a shape, it is the "recut" of the metal. The "plate" of the crimp is then filed and polished, each movement must be executed with great precision so as not to damage the stone. This is why they use binocular magnifiers to be as accurate as possible.
-The grained seal consists of pushing small grains of metals on the stone, which keeps it firmly.
-The rail seal, is done to crimp the stones in a rail so that there is no space between them.
-The sealing claw consists of holding the stone with claws, which sticks to the stone.
Sealing a ring can take from a few hours to several days depending on the complexity of the arrangement of the ring or the number of stones. It is the capital stage that can sublimate or destroy the jewel.