The design of a jewelry

Discover all the secrets of the design of a tower jewel. The Tournaire Maison uses classic jewelry-joilry manufacturing techniques and also develops many innovative techniques for the design of these jewelry.

Design and waxes

The lost wax melting is an ancestral, very precise technique. Most of the time we use this process for our jewelry, because we can work the wax by sculpting it, by modeling it, by engraving it ... This stage of the waxing of the waxes is essential in the Tournaire manufacturing process.

We also use another technique. Indeed, we were also one of the first jewelry houses to bet on the 3 -dimensional design in 1997, with a 3D digital command at 4 axes. Ideas for creating a jewel always arise on paper, they are then translated in 3 dimensions on computer. The representation of the jewelry is then transmitted to a 3D printer which, by successive wax layers, will create the jewelry matrix.

We appeared as UFOs at the start in the world of jewelry, using 3D. Today, almost everyone uses it. At first, we were told that it was not jewelry, but you have to live with your time: stone sculptors no longer use the hammer and chisel. Even with the computer, the head commands the hand commands the mouse. If we give a pen and paper to the gentleman, he will not write the Victor Hugo. With 3D it is the same, without creativity and knowledge of technical constraints, we could not achieve anything.

We are fortunate to have a good knowledge of the workshop, it is not enough to know how to draw beautiful jewelry, you must also know the technical constraints to make them.

Other processes exist, such as forge, cutting, assembly by rivets or welds to make a model directly in metal which can possibly be molded in rubber in order to be able to make aftershocks. The mold will be cut into two parts to remove the model. There will only be the imprint of the jewelry. We can therefore inject wax into the mold, which will allow us to obtain wax models for melting. Various modifications can be made on the waxes before the cast iron. We can for example find operations to put a ring in size in order to best adapt to the client's finger.

This step is very delicate, each defect remaining on the wax will appear on the metal, it is therefore advisable to make a very good preparation of its wax.

The waxes are mounted on a tree called"Circle tree". Once all the waxes have been installed, the tree is ready to be"Plaster". This step will create a cylindrical mold, the"Font cylinder", in refractory plaster including the form of"The wax tree"negative in order to accommodate melted metals.

The precious metal is first heated in order to reach its melting temperature and move to the liquid state. The cylinder with«The wax tree»is previously heated in order to make the wax disappear and avoid a thermal shock during the flow of the melted metal. When the cast iron flow, the liquid metal takes the form of"The wax tree"in the cast iron cylinder. After cooling, the cylinder is broken to release"The cast iron tree",Then the plaster is definitely withdrawn using a high pressure jet of water.

The guarantee of an artisanal know -how without compromise

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